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Pete's India Blog
4 NOV 2010 - Left Nottingham yesterday on a wet and dull November afternoon. Arrived in Delhi mid afternoon to find a great new airport that had been opened since my last visit in April – a positive legacy from the Commonwealth Games – and SUNSHINE! Got a few days of meetings and checking hotels before my group arrives on Sunday.
5 NOV 2010 - Today India and the UK have something in common, though for different reasons. This is Diwali, probably the biggest festival of the year in India. Lots of intricate floor decorations in the hotels and everyone wishing each other “happy Diwali” and exchanging sweets. Fireworks have been going off since lunchtime winding up for the big celebration. Night time now and a good view from my room on the 4th floor.
6 NOV 2010 - Today had a rare chance to explore Delhi (been through more times than I can count, but rarely get time to stop). Began the morning at Qutab Minar, which has a wealth of ancient ruins to explore as well as the tower, and also visited India Gate. After lunch went to Jama Masjid and after driving through the narrow streets of Old Delhi finished up at the Laxminarayan Hindu Temple, one of the few that allows non Hindu visitors.
7 NOV 2010 - Today is arrival day for my next group to Bandhavgarh. Head off through the haze to the hotel in Gurgaon (reasonably close to the airport). Arrive at the same time as two of my clients, and get chance to catch up before they head off into Delhi for sightseeing, retracing my journey yesterday. Humayun’s tomb is closed unfortunately because of a VViP visitor from the USA. Afternoon on the laptop (mobile office) and a Welcome meeting tonight.
8 NOV 2010 - Busy morning trying to find a camera battery for one of the clients. Took a quick walk down to the pet food store near the hotel to get some more food for Rosie the dog before lunch. Left the hotel mid afternoon and drove across Delhi to catch our overnight train. Manic as ever, but entertaining. We've made good time and just passed through Agra at 9 pm. The group (and me) are looking forward to Bandhavgarh tomorrow.
9 NOV 2010 - Arrived in Katni on time and took the 2 ½ hour drive to Bandhavgarh in the early morning sun. Found that I had lost my case keys somewhere between the train and the hotel, so had to hacksaw a few padlocks. Then discovered my trunk had suffered in the monsoon and I had a few soggy books and clothes. Always look on the bright side of life...... The first drive into the park soon put things right. The monsoon was really good this year and everything was spectacularly green. Three of the jeeps had tigers on the first drive and the other had a good view of a big sloth bear. Nice way to start.
10 NOV 2010 - Out at 4.30am to meet the group for tea & toast before our game drive. The night sky provided a spectacular backdrop on our drive to the gate, and we were first in at 6am just before sunrise. Lots of pugmarks but no tigers for our jeep: one of the jeeps had B2 up close and personal. Paid a visit to see the Vishnu statue at Sheshaiyya on the way out. The afternoon was quiet. Waited for some time at a place where a tiger had left a half eaten sambar deer, but she didn’t return. Weather is unusually warm and humid. Hoping for better luck tomorrow.
11 NOV 2010 - Slightly misty as we went into the park. Long drive around the western perimeter following a set of pugmarks for many km before they disappeared. Had a second set of tracks travelling away from our route and was beginning to think we had missed our chance when a tiger suddenly appeared out of the forest and crossed the road in front of us near Bhatan. This turned out to be a female (one of Jhurjhura’s 2005 litter) and her three cubs, who are about a year old. Nice start to the day. The afternoon turned very hot and humid and the clouds promised rain for a while, but this passed. Almost dark by the time we left the park.
12 NOV 2010 - Almost immediately we heard a few deer alarm calls, but nothing came out. We continued and saw a jackal crossing the road in front of us, before seeing a female tiger in the forest just north of Rajbhera meadow. A good sighting as she crossed the road twice. Next we saw a crested serpent eagle kill a snake near the road before flying off with it (the snake being twice the length of the bird), and finally saw one of the Mirchani cubs in a meadow. Whenever he moved, the young tiger was carrying a large clump of grass and roots around with him like a prized possession. All the jeeps saw tigers and the last jeep in the group finally broke their duck. Good start to the afternoon. Saw two sambar searching for river weed and had a good sighting of a changeable hawk eagle. Decided that B2 was in Goredamon and spent most of the afternoon waiting there. Took a look round to check out some alarm calls, but no tigers. The temperature has dropped quickly tonight – finally feels like November.
13 NOV 2010 - Cloudy start to the morning. Drove around the eastern perimeter road and found the two male Mirchani cubs close to the side of the road. Only one jeep was there before us, and we had some good views of the two brothers. As more jeeps began to arrive, the tigers gradually retreated into the forested hillside. Our afternoon was quiet, waiting for a tiger in one spot, who never came out. Saw plenty of birds and three squirrels playing hide & seek in the trees. Some of the group saw the Mirchani cubs playing with a langur monkey that they had killed the day before.
14 NOV 2010 - Morning off due to a stomach upset. Very quiet afternoon as part of the park was closed, this curtailing all of the routes. Apparently B2 has killed some cattle and injured himself in the process. The mahouts and elephants have been watching over him (managing to stop him feeding on a poisoned carcass in the process) and they have decided to tranquilise him and treat the injury. This is always a risky business in this part of the world, so we are all keeping our fingers crossed.
15 NOV 2010 - A quiet day. We were supposed to have an elephant ride today, but this was cancelled at the last minute as the elephants were keeping an eye on B2. We spent the morning in Maghdi Zone and the afternoon in the western side of Tala Zone. Different topography, but fewer animals and birds.
16 NOV 2010 -Today the group finally went to the new elephant camp at Badrasila, and took a two hour private elephant ride through the jungle to track the tigers and see the forest from a very different viewpoint. Everyone had an enjoyable time and finished by feeding their elephants (and the youngster back at camp) molasses, one of their favourite treats. In the afternoon we headed out on our route and came across a fresh set of leopard tracks. At a junction, we turned one way to check before retracing our steps to try the other turn. Our guide, who was standing on the tailgate and had height advantage to see over the slight rise in the road, suddenly called “leopard!” We drove quickly towards the spot, and saw a second leopard crossing behind the other. It ran across the grass to the rocks at the base of the hill and made to disappear into the forest, so working on the basis it had at least something in common with our cats at home I called it in similar fashion. Surprisingly it stopped and looked at me just long enough to take a picture. Nice!
17 NOV 2010 - On our morning round and stopped to check for Mirchani female and her cubs. Met Inderjit and Astan the elephants with their mahouts. The tigress was in a river bed with a kill: out of sight of the road the spot had water and was a sun trap in the early morning -- a perfect place for the tigers. We waited all morning with no luck, and hoped to return in the afternoon. After breakfast some of us took the walk from the Vishnu statue up the fort hill. After a steady hour’s climb and frequent stops to view the old ruins (and rest!) we reached the temple at the top of the hill. The views were magnificent! On our descent we stopped at the statue for our lunch in the shade, before continuing with our afternoon drive. We resumed our morning vigil, and heard the sounds of half hearted roaring in the trees, but still the tigers did not come out. Cats......!

18 NOV 2010 -Drove around C Route, or “Calcutta” as everyone now seems to refer to it. Many pugmarks on the tracks; first a female, then a male, then a different female with cubs and finally another male. Every bend on the track was met with anticipation. Finally arrived near to the place where we had left the tiger on the kill yesterday, to find that they had finished the kill and moved into a glade at the bottom of the wooded hillside: only a 100m or so, but not visible from the road. We waited all morning, moving once to check some alarm calls, and were just thinking we were out of luck when we caught sight of 2 of the tigers moving in and out of the trees about 200m away. Nice reward for the patience. By the time we went back into the park, it had clouded over and we had an occasional shower. We returned to where we had seen the tigers in the morning, and had a distant glimpse of two of the tigers. After a while we decided that it would probably be some time before they came out, and went to check where a third cub had been seen in the morning. Success!! We saw the male sub-adult in the grass less than 10m away, and proceeded to watch him for half an hour. Eventually, as more jeeps arrived, he went under some bushes calling (we think) to his siblings as he went. We decided to head back to the other two tigers, and were rewarded by arriving just as they started to move. We thought that they were going to cross the road right in front of us, but instead they stopped at the side of the road less than 10m away from us on some rocks just at eye level. For 10 minutes we watched and took pictures of them as they posed for the crowd, obviously wondering what the fuss was about. Finally, in the dusk and increasing rain, we left the forest to them and headed home. Best sighting of the tour.
19 NOV 2010 - Woke in the morning to find dense fog and drizzle. Spent the morning preparing for departure to Delhi, while the clients went to the park. One jeep saw a male tiger in the grass near the road, almost hidden by the fog. (Later found out that the fog was widespread and had closed Delhi airport for a time). After lunch returned to Katni to get our overnight train to Delhi.
20 NOV 2010 - Up at 4am to see clients off the train in Agra, on the way to see Chambal and the Taj Mahal. Arrived in Delhi just after 9am and made it to the hotel in time for breakfast. Spent the day catching up on emails and meetings before a farewell drink with the clients in the evening. Off to Nepal tomorrow to visit Pokhara, Bardia and Chitwan.
21 NOV 2010 - Early arrival at the airport. First time through the new international departures: much better than before. Must be good because as I was having coffee and a muffin for breakfast a very friendly 'Siberian Hamster' came nosing around for scraps... We had a good view of the Himalayas as we flew into Kathmandu. Spent a couple of hours at the Dwarika's Hotel, a fabulous building surrounding cool courtyards. (The buildings have exquisitely carved windows and doors that have been rescued to preserve the local workmanship, some dating back hundreds of years). Then a transfer back to the airport to catch my flight to Pokhara. The traffic in the city is crazy, but as the Landrover climbed up the hillside to our lodge it became more peaceful. The lodge is situated on a great vantage point, overlooking the terraced fields on the slopes below. Should have a good view point for the Himalayas, but the clouds have come in for the day. Hope to have clear weather for the sunrise tomorrow.
22 NOV 2010 - A quick look out of the window on waking to see the moon through broken cloud. Have a quick cup of coffee and hurry to one of the vantage points overlooking the valley to wait to see what happens. As the dawn begins, you suddenly realise that the thing you are looking at halfway up the sky isn't a fold in the cloud but a mountain: unbelievably high! Then the sun catches the top of Annapurna through a break in the clouds. Over the next hour I get to see various parts of the peaks, but not the full vista. Better luck tomorrow. After breakfast we have a walk through the terraced farmland below the lodge: all the people we meet are very freindly. Spend the afternoon learning about the lodge and then it's time for dinner. The local Gorkha beer is very good!
23 NOV 2010 - Woke up to the sound of the rain on the roof. Looked outside to see the overcast sky and distinct lack of mountains. Good excuse to come back another time! Drove to Chitwan: bumpy roads but spectacular scenery as we followed a river gorge south. The lodge is actually inside the national park, so the last hour of the journey was by open Landover and boat, as we had to cross a river on the way. The afternoon was a short talk about the 11 elephants in the stable at the camp, followed by an elephant safari. The forest is lush and green, with very tall grasses, cut by two wide shallow rivers. Saw several rhino (including a 6 week old) and plenty of other mammals and birdlife.
24 NOV 2010 - Back out on the elephant this morning. From now until the end of February the mornings are cool and misty, and the park is very atmospheric as we ghost through the long grass. We end our ride at the satellite tented camp that belongs to our lodge, and have breakfast, before taking a 2 hour walk through the forest back to the main camp. It feels really nice to walk in the forest, down small tracks and across several river beds. We get a chance to see smaller things, like the spiders and insects, and a real feel for the scale of the trees. Highly recommended. In the afternoon, we take a boat ride to look for gharial and crocodile: see a nice group of 3 sunning themselves on the riverbank. Also see plenty of birds, including a “V” formation of over 100 cormorants flying past out of the setting sun. Magical. On our drive back to the lodge we come across marks on the track where a tiger has made a kill and then dragged it into the undergrowth. We wait as dusk falls, and here a chital make an alarm call. The tiger is coming! A short time later we here it calling in the long grass some way from our Landrover, but it refuses to come out, so we head back for dinner.
25 NOV 2010 - A slow morning, and after breakfast head off to Bharatpur airport to begin my journey to Bardia, via Kathmandu. As usual there are delays with the local flights, and by the time we reach or lodge it is gone 9pm. Word has got around that it’s my birthday, and after dinner I’m told that there is something waiting outside.... which turns out to be a traditionally decorated elephant carrying a birthday cake. Now, that’s what I call a birthday surprise! How do I fit an elephant in the hand baggage.....?
26 NOV 2010 - After coffee we begin the day with a short drive to meet our elephants, and set off for a trek through the jungle. It feels amazing to have the forest to ourselves, and we get a feel of how it must have been for those exploring the forests many years ago. The misty morning adds to the atmosphere, and we see many animals and birds in the stillness, including two wild bull elephants: it really feels as though we are at one with the forest. We stop for breakfast at the satellite river camp, which is being rebuilt after parts were washed away in the monsoon, and then take a two hour boat ride down the Karnali River. We see many birds, and at the end of the ride see two curious mongoose watching us from the bank. Our team has travelled ahead and cooked lunch on an open fire, and afterwards we take a short walk before rejoining the elephants for our journey home. We see a rhino, swamp deer and sambar stag to mention but a few, before arriving at the lodge at dusk. A truly memorable day that will remain with me for a long time.
27 NOV 2010 - Had a morning at camp catching up on some work on the laptop. Left just after lunch to drive back to Nepalgunj for my flight back to Kathmandu. Stopped at a bridge/dam on the way to look at the local crocodiles basking on the banks in the late afternoon sun. Below us a huge female gharial was cruising the water below the spillway looking for fish. As usual the flight was late, so went straight to Krishnaarpan’s Restaurant for dinner. Great food, and then retired to my hotel for the night.
28 NOV 2010 - Hadn’t been impressed by the hotel on arrival, and was even less so when I saw what had settled out of the water in my bedside glass overnight. Remembered to wipe my feet on the way out of the hotel. The flight back to Delhi was......... late, but better that the one from Delhi to Kolkata which was cancelled. Got myself transferred on to the night flight, and headed to our group hotel in Gurgaon for a meal and to cadge a shower. Should be in Kolkata by midnight and heading off to the Sunderbans in the morning.
29 NOV 2010 - The Taj Bengal was a great relief after yesterday's journey, and we head off in the morning rush hour out of Kolkata to catch the ferry to the Sunderbans. As we leave the city the road runs on a raised causeway through a landscape of seemingly endless rice paddies, interspersed with the chimneys of brick kilns. After 2 1/2 hours we arrive at the port and board the boat for our crossing. On arrival there is time for a quick lunch, and then it's off for our first cruise. We visit the 'interpretation centre' (with nothing to interpret...) and then only have a short time on the boat. We don't see much, and the rest of the party, who have only come down for one night, are less then happy.
30 NOV 2010 - Have a boat to myself today, and head off into the early morning mist through a network of tidal creeks that flow through the mangrove swamps. This is more like it, plenty of bird-life , including some spectacular kingfishers, osprey and a white bellied fish eagle, plus a couple of marsh crocodiles. Get some good video footage of a huge monster sliding down the muddy bank into the river. In the late afternoon take a walk around the village, watching the people at work. A lot of damage was caused by flooding during last year's cyclone, and things are only coming back together in parts. We see people harvesting the crops, fishing, playing cards and building a traditional fishing canoe by hand. Before dinner, see a film about the Sunderban tigers and their man-eating behaviour.
01 DEC 2010 - Head off for a full day cruise, intending to visit some of the smaller creeks. The morning begins with some good bird sightings, but then seems to run out of steam. We head deep into the reserve, and reach a very large channel that serves as a through route for ships travelling from Bangladesh to Kolkata. We see an old, battered freighter moored at the edge and stop to say hello. We are invited aboard and spend half an hour with the crew, which turns out to be lucky. As we head back northwards, our guide suddenly spots a tiger at the end of the creek we are in, obviously looking to cross the creek. He stops, and we stop, and we watch each other from a distance. He decides to head back into the forest, and we creep slowly down the channel. Suddenly we see the tiger behind us, so we stop again and turn the boat. He disappears, and we edge back down the channel, and I suddenly see him about 50m away in the forest. For a short while we move down the creek together, with the tiger occasionally looking at us. Finally he goes inside for good, and we return home celebrating our good fortune. Very rare sighting indeed, and some good pictures.
02 DEC 2010 - Take an easy morning around the camp, getting ready to return home. After an early lunch take the 1 1/2 hour boat ride back to the mainland and a three hour drive back to Kolkata. My driver thinks that he's an F1 driver: bit like Karun Chandhouk, but without the skill or conversation, and a bit short in the good looks department too..... Too early at the airport, so check in takes a while. Then learn that the plane is about 2 hours late: good job that I have a long layover in Dubai. Finally at 10pm I wave goodbye to India until next year.
03 DEC 2010 - 2:30am arrival into Dubai. Fortunately I've got access to the Emirates lounge, so grab a quick snack and rearrange the furniture so that I can catch a couple of hours sleep. After breakfast and a shower its off for the last leg back to Birmingham. What's that white stuff on the floor....? How cold....? Counting the days until Sri Lanka in February!

If you would like to contact me to ask any questions about my recent adventures please feel free to email me or call.
Bye for now!

Pete
 
Jhurjura Tigress Killed By Vehicle
JUNE 2010 At the end of May, Jhurjura tigress was hit by a vehicle near to Rajbhera dam. What beggars belief is that the accident was caused by a park vehicle entering the park illegally with a group of "VIPs" at around 4 am. Unforgivably, the vehicle concerned then left the scene without seeking assistance, and Jhurjura was found by a tourist vehicle at around 6:30. Although they immediately sought help, the tiger died soon afterwards. As usual, rumours were flying around thick and fast. The blame was initially placed on tourists, and some vehicles were banned and routes closed. The focus has now turned to the park officials, and I've heard that two vehicles have been impounded and three officials suspended. As yet I haven't been able to find out who.
A further concern is her three cubs, who would have been around five months old and still suckling at the time of the accident. By the end of June the cubs were still in good health and being fed by the park staff. The bigest problem will be that their mother is no longer there to protect and educate them. We can only pray for the best. Personally I hope that Shiva pays some people a visit in the dark hours of the night.....
Tiger Tourism To Continue
MAY 2010 Contrary to reports published in certain sections of the UK press, India has no plans to stop tourists visiting the core areas of the major tiger reserves.
“Our policy is to develop a set of guidelines for eco - tourism where tourism takes place in a sustainable way, linked to the carrying capacity of the reserves. We are not at all interested in stopping tiger tourism.”

“Tourism is the only way to generate revenue for the local community. We have no intention of stopping tourism.”
Jairam Ramesh
Environment Minister
2 May 2010
While unregulated tourism is a bad thing, responsible tourism is essential to the future survival of the tiger. Tourists provide a monitoring system for the welfare of the tigers in the parks. That is why some parties (including some park officials) are keen to ban the tourists, and why it is vital for the future of the tiger that tourism continues in a responsible manner. The presence of tourists acts as a deterrent to poachers. Where many pairs of eyes patrol the park each day the loss of a well documented tiger is more easily noticed. Less visited parks such as Sariska and Panna have been hit hard over the last few years.
The income generated by tourism provides a benefit to both the park authorities and the local people. Where the local people have jobs and the prospect of long term financial benefit from tiger tourism, they are more likely to protect their tigers and less likely to help the poachers. Compensation schemes by the Forest Department and local charities that compensate the villagers for injury and loss of cattle rely on the tourists for funding.
Our view is quite simple : See The Tiger, Save The Tiger.
Tourism Numbers
JULY 2010 In an effort to protect the core areas of the tiger reserves, the number of tourist jeeps will be reduced for next season. However, the reports attributing the number of jeeps that will be allowed entry into Bandhavgarh as being only 18 would appear to be unfounded. Latest news on the grapevine (as of 9th July) is that the Conservator of Forests is looking at reducing the number of jeeps in the Tala Zone at Bandhavgarh from 45 to 35. Maghdi and Khitauli Zones should continue as before. I think that the claims of 18 are unnecessarily alarmist.
Having always been organised sufficiently in advance with our tour groups, we have never had any problems in accessing the core areas, unlike some other operators. We have no reason to think that this situation will change.
New Cubs Born In Bandhavgarh
JUNE 2009 Chorbera has been seen mating with the Bhamera male, one of the now matured tigers from Bandar & Chakradhara's previous litter. The mahouts think that she may be pregnant, so we are once again hoping for some new additions to the park during the early part of the monsoon. Since February she has been carrying a heavy limp on her right hind leg. Although very noticeable when she walks, when she hunts and has to run it disappears and she has been quite capable of fending for herself. How this will hinder her in raising a litter we don't know, and there is much discussion at the moment about the benefits of providing treatment.
AUGUST 2009 Chorbera tigress has been reported as having cubs. UPDATE SPRING 2010 Two cubs : healthy though a little small, probably due to Chorbera's hunting being made more difficult by her injury.
AUGUST 2009 Mahaman tigress has been reported as having delivered cubs. UPDATE SPRING 2010 Confirmed : four cubs that are seen occasionally. A fellow guest in March had a good sighting of mother and cubs, plus the photographs to prove it.
SEPTEMBER 2009 Mirchani tigress was reported by forest officials as having three new cubs. UPDATE SPRING 2010 Confirmed : all three cubs doing well.
Bhamera Tigress Poisoned
AUGUST 2009 Bhamera tigress had been in conflict with local villager for some time. In the previous months she had killed two villagers and become a frequent taker of cattle. It is though that after one such kill the carcass was poisoned and the tiger died on 20 August after she returned to it and ate. The body was cremated after postmortem. Bhamera had three 8 month old cubs that would not be able to survive on their own, but they were found alive and are being cared for by the Forest Department in a large enclosure in the Maghdi zone.
Chakradhara Cub Hit By Vehicle
JUNE 2009 Unfortunately we have some bad news about Chalkradhara's litter. On 21 April 2009 one of the cubs was injured by a tourist jeep, subsequently dying a few days later. It is clear that the cub went under the jeep and that the jeep moved while it was still there, though accounts differ as to whether or not the mother was acting aggressively towards the jeep. Other stories abound (I have even heard one version where the cub was already injured beforehand (?)) and as a result the whole story is unclear. The driver, Satyendra Tiwari, was arrested but has subsequently been released on bail awaiting trial, and was driving in the park again before I returned home early in June. I am surprised that someone as experienced and committed to tiger conservation should have been involved in the death of a tiger, and it is a bitter irony that his was often the loudest voice complaining about others' behaviour.
I'll keep everyone posted about the outcome of the trial, and what action Tour Operators For Tigers (TOFT) take against the driver, who is one of their members.
UPDATE JUNE 2010 Still no news of when anything will be done : driver concerned still entering the park and still no observable action by TOFT.
Banbai Female Presumed Dead
JUNE 2009 An adult tiger was found dead just outside the park at the beginning of May. The park authorities are claiming that this is a 12 year old male, but all the known males are accounted for. Banbai female has gone missing, so most people are of the opinion that the dead tiger is almost certainly her. Sad news is that this only leaves Chakradhara alive from the offspring of Sita and Charger. Her three cubs look to be fending for themselves, so hopefully they will continue to maturity.
Senior Park Officials Removed In Madhya Pradesh
JUNE 2009 The rules of the National Tiger Conservation Authority (formerly known as Project Tiger) strictly prohibit the removal of adult breeding tigers from the core areas of National Parks. In spite of this, Bhitri female was tranquilised and removed from Bandhavgarh to Panna in March, along with a female from Kanha. The stated idea was to mate the two females with the sole remaining resident male to repopulate the park. The move met a lot of resistance from both parks, including a strike by the guides at Kanha.
There were far more suitable candidates for relocation and there is concern as to how effective protection for the tigers will be, bearing in mind that Panna has lost its existing tigers. There had been no confirmed sightings of the old male recently, and I have unconfirmed reports that the signal from Bhitri's radio collar is many km from the area in the park where she was released.
At the end of May the Field Directors of Bandhavgarh, Kanha, and Panna National Parks were transferred from their posts as a result of the decline in tiger numbers in the state.
SEPTEMBER 2009 (Indian web based news agency) The forest department announced that the plan to remove another male tiger from Bandhavgarh on 25 September to join the two tigresses already transferred had been postponed, after it was found that the male belonged to the same gene pool as one of the two females.
Other News
AUGUST 2009 Four big tigers have been seen behind Garphuri Dam. These are thought by some to be cubs from Mahaman’s first litter, though this would be at odds with the report of one of the cubs having been killed be a male tiger in March 2008. Any sighting of tigers is good news. A patrolling party spotted a “new” male tiger on a trail near Chilhari village.
JUNE 2009 Mirchani's two sub adult males are very confident and still moving around as a pair. One in particular takes great delight in parading slowly in front of the assembled jeeps -- the authentic "catwalk" model.
JUNE 2009 Jhurjura's litter is almost fully grown and gave us regular sightings in the water at Rajbhera Dam. We also had good views of one of the cubs hunting and one the last morning of our summer tour we saw Jhurjura and Boka mating just a few yards from the jeep.
JUNE 2009 Bandar (B2) is still in good condition, though he is coming under increasing pressure from Bhamera, his four year old son. Bhamera seems to be able to handle both Bandar and the other dominant male, Boka, so it would appear that the balance of power in the park is about to change.
 
   
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